‘Every Culinary Artist Should Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Secures 4th on List of London’s Best Restaurants.

When curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.